Bid on this 1.5 Liter Gosset Champagne Brut Excellence. A broad Champagne, featuring nice definition and flavors of pear pastry, black licorice and smoke on a delicately textured, creamy mousse. Shows fine length, with a lingering ginger note. Drink now through 2013." (11/10) Gosset is small for a grand marque. At 50,000 cases a year total production they make about as much Champagne as Krug. They are located in Ay, the heart of Champagne, along with Bollinger, Deutz and De Meric, and they have been making wine there since 1584, the oldest currently operating wine producer in Champagne. None of their Champagnes ever go through malolactic. On their website, they list the Brut Excellence as being composed of 42% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir (all from Grand and Premier Cru vineyards) and 13% Pinot Meunier including 24% reserve wines from two vintages. When I met the sales manager of Gosset, she told me that they also use a small amount of Fromenteau (Pinot Gris) Petit Meslier & Arbanne in this reserve wine. Those are the almost extinct, native varietals of Champagne and it would certainly explain some of Gosset's exotic complexity if they were indeed in the blend. This is rich, layered Champagne with brioche and pear aromas and a long, bright finish from the suppressed malo. It is snappy enough to serve for toasting, but has enough guts for a salmon dinner and enough exotic intrigue to keep the interest of a Champagne enthusiast all night. It should keep well, and even improve for a couple of years.