It’s 5:20 on a brisk Friday evening. As a small crowd gathers in front of Doña Tomás, anticipation grows for the restaurant’s opening. “Isn’t it time yet?” asks one eager woman, while peering through the window. “Don’t worry, it’ll be worth the wait,” answers a jovial man. You’d think this was Chez Panisse. But we’re in Oakland, not Berkeley; the Temescal, not the Gourmet Ghetto; awaiting Mexican fare, not Californian. Despite all these obvious differences, the two restaurants do share two important characteristics: The food is crafted from local, high-quality, handmade ingredients, and people love them with an uncommon loyalty.

Enjoy an evening at Restaurante Dona Tomas in Oakland.