Think of Sinigual as an upscale version of Chevys Fresh Mex, the suburban Tex-Mex staple. Owned by the same conglomerate, it’s a deliberately campy theme restaurant whose palatial, terracotta interior could be anywhere.

The Manhattan outpost feels like an adobe-style cafeteria clamoring with midtown professionals downing steaks and pasilla-cilantro rice. To wash the food down there are more than 60 tequilas available, including oak-aged Reposados and Anejos. Potent margaritas are served at a long, semiprecious stone-inlaid bar. All the token south-of-the-border gestures are here: Brightly painted murals of agave fields, woven rugs, festive star-shaped lanterns, fake aloe plants, and Latin music blasting from speakers.

Despite the party-like atmosphere and the glorified kitsch, Sinigual’s dishes are sophisticated interplays that present Tex-Mex at its best. The lobster quesadilla brims with sweet chunks of meat, pineapple and mango in a crunchy warm tortilla, and big portions of sizzling carne asada come simmered in sweet red onions. Gargantuan volcanic bowls of guacamole are made tableside.