Victor's Cafe, in the Theater District, has been a redoubt for high-end Cuban food for 45 years. In an airy space, the tropical theme is carried out with bright hand-painted murals, cane-backed chairs and old-time paddle fans gently waving in the rafters. The menu is more ambitious than a rice-and-beans joint, with both a classica menu of favorites like ropa vieja, skirt steak sauteed in onions, tomatoes, onions and peppers, then shredded by hand; and a neuva menu with ambitious fare like snapper, marinated in Seville oranges, and salmon, with a sugarcane glaze.

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