Experience the best in fine dining with a four-course dinner for 2 with wine pairings at Telepan.

Bill Telepan of the once-popular and now-defunct Judson Grill in midtown turns out to be an avowed Greenmarketeer. To convey a sense of bucolic earthiness, his Upper West Side restaurant's menu is patterned with oak leaves, and the walls of the rooms are colored in a soothing, mossy green. There are over two dozen dishes available, not including dessert.

Earthy, robust flavors are one of the staples of high Greenmarket cooking, but Telepan seems more at home with lightness and subtlety. The seafood dishes are close to excellent. The bar offers a variety of decent cocktails, and an eclectic wine list.

 www.telepan-ny.com