Wylie Dufresne paved the way for molecular gastronomy with his now-shuttered New York restaurant WD-50. And in the years after it’s closed, he has roamed Manhattan in search of two “meaningful coffee experiences.” On his quest (and in his daily life in general), he dresses for adventure — with a waterproof backpack and dry-wick North Face shorts crammed with mini flashlights and a pocketknife.