Two vintages later, the 2010 effort steps more quietly onto the palate. Though it was a little bit closed when I tasted it, it was obviously more polished, with silkier tannins, than the 2008. It shows barbecued meat, tobacco and iron, and keeps to a tight, unyielding structure. The 2012, the current release, shows the fat, rich friendliness typical of its vintage in Napa: both plumper and brighter than the 2010, oozing layers of juicy black fruit, if lacking some of the taut structure of that earlier wine. Powerful, grippy with cocoa-powder tannins, charcoal and smoke.