DuMOL certainly has earned its cred after years of making wines that rank near the top of the ratings list, and, while there is not a thing wrong with this bottling, it is not as deep and dramatic as its predecessors. To be sure, the top DuMOLs are vineyard designated, not its 'appellation' bottlings, but even then, this clean, fairly precise but less-than-fully-stuffed bottling focuses on specific red cherry fruit with a dollop of creamy oak for some added richness, and it has the energy to grow a little with a few years of aging.