The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon has a sense of "coolness" on the nose, a little aloof at first and then deigning to present you with light limestone and flinty notes. The palate is taut on the entry with a touch of sour lemon that lends this Clavoillon fine tension and persistence. One feels that it is holding something back. What that is, you'll need a cool dark cellar to find out. (NM)