Calexico, which began as a street cart in SoHo and now has restaurants in Gowanus and Greenpoint.

Beer-battered cod, the skin properly crunchy; a slaw with forthright spice; surprisingly fresh mango salsa; and a chipotle sauce hot and sly enough to make you blush. 

As if fries weren't miraculously decadent enough, this Cali-Mex chainlet's gone and smothered them in guacamole, braised beef brisket, onions, black beans, cheese, pico de gallo and sour cream. And though all of those toppings seem like they'd make the fries sag like hot nacho chips, the chile-cilantro fries Calexico uses actually hold up under all those meaty, cheesy NOMs.