If on the one hand as rich and effusively fruity as we have come to expect the Darioush versions to be, this latest in a string of noteworthy successes shows an extra push of youthful vitality and freshness that lifts it into the ranks of the better Viogniers to be had. It is full and weighty with a slightly firm, yet fleshy feel, and its deep, authoritative flavors of ripe peaches, sweet limes and hardwood spice show extraordinary length. It is not much concerned with restraint, yet it is brilliantly balanced with the stamina to age famously.