"2004 Liberalia Liber Gran Reserva

Impossibly dark red for an 11 year old; could have been a barrel sample, but for the lightness at the rim. Wonderfully complex nose of dark fruits, vanilla, tobacco and earth. On the palate this wine shows its massive size; this is a huge, Mouton-like behemoth of a wine. The tannins are still very present but they are ripe and not at all raspy. Flavours of blackberry and raspberry dominate and are backed up with notes of Asian spices and hints of leafiness. Rich and mouth-filling with an long, long finish, this comes across as a young, almost unformed, Napa Cab or Washington Syrah. But this is in fact classically Toro, whose harsh climate produces bold fruit layered over firm structure. Bordering on over-the-top, it remains just in bounds but will no doubt become more tamed with a few more years in the cellar. This one is destined for the long haul, an easy decade or more. Absolutely delicious, but only for palates that can appreciate a bigger style!"