The right chef in the right place at the right time makes No. 9 Park just right for Boston. Barbara Lynch's dining destination has it all, down to the interior design---neither trendy nor stuffy, but rather smart and subdued enough to make everyone feel comfy. Owing to its Beacon Hill location, it draws lobbyists and money-movers at lunchtime, while evening paints a broader picture with serious foodies, expense-accounters and oohing suburbanites jockeying for space at the always happening bar, or debating whether to splurge on the nine-course tasting menu at table. After all, it's the cooking that has earned Number Nine such a following: Lynch's pastas are famously superb, including the most rich prune-stuffed gnocchi with seared foie gras in a vin santo glaze; entrées, though elegant, retain their rustic roots---as in aged soy-brushed braised short ribs with carrot purée; desserts follow the seasonal route, though the signature black-pepper cheesecake is always a must. All that said, we're happiest among the bar-hoppers, mingling with the gracious and talented mixologists on staff while grazing from the slightly less dear café menu---Gorgonzola fondue with bite-size pieces of tender lamb and brioche is an especially fun favorite.