Because the service is genuinely warm and does not constantly interrupt to ask if everything is all right. Have you noticed how often that happens now? I thought I was getting recognized, but not six restaurants in a row — a streak interrupted only at Eclano. Sometimes a restaurant stands out by having, say, what seems to be the one neighborhood server on all of Salem Street who talks about things like how no one used to go to restaurants in the North End “because we all ate at home.” Does anyone besides me notice the difference between servers who have that kind of conversation and servers who take away your plates with food on them, saying, “Are you still working on that?” What is it about serving $30-plus entrées that requires so many server visits to ask how things are? Is it a spiritual exercise designed to remind us that there are some things money can’t buy