All very civilized in Graton. When do you finally consider yourself an adult? Go pull up a stool at the Underwood's nickel-topped bar, order a flawless cocktail or a full-bodied pinot from the hand-stamped menu, and you're certain to feel like a grown-up. A throwback to vintage San Francisco, this popular Sonoma County spot effortlessly blends sophisticated food and drink with an old-time sensibility. The ever-changing menu never disappoints, offering tapas-style small plates, a variety of oysters and cheeses and a list of entrées that makes it nearly impossible to decide. Décor wise, everything just works, from the pendant lamps and deep red vinyl banquettes to each detailed shade of paint on the walls--so much so that you're apt to overlook its subtle perfection.