Chef/owner Lloyd Feit gives West Villagers exactly what they want: A menu that ranges from casual (a superb burger and fries) to cassoulet, an effortlessly suave and spacious dining room, and an always-reliable kitchen. Mr. Feit buys organic as much as possible, and long before the bistro/brasserie craze brought us self-conscious places like Balthazar and Pastis, Café Loup was doing its thing without fanfare or pretense. A no-brainer for lunch or dinner if you're in the neighborhood.