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At this regional-Italian restaurant decorated with antique photos of the old country and terra cotta pottery on exposed-brick walls, Naples native Ciro Verde  produces a very fine thin-crust pizza that bears the smoky flavor only a wood-burning oven can impart. Interestingly, while the tomato sauce is fresh, properly acidic, and not oversweet, the sauceless pies steal the show. Pizza Bianco Con Prosciutto weds fontina and mozzarella to their textural opposites, prosciutto and peppery arugula; the result is a well-blended sharpness. Fragrant with truffle oil, focaccia robiola da Ciro, with a creamy center of Robiola cheese flanked by focaccia, is the signature dish. Anything cooked in the wood-burning oven is quite fine—casseroles arrive bubbling with tomato sauce or brimming with a mélange of charred but tender seafood. A triumphant and flavorful entrée, the roasted veal chop, comes in a ragout-like sauce of portobello mushrooms and artichoke slivers. The meat, savory with hints of sage, is caramelized on the outside and juicy inside. Also on the menu are big-flavored antipasti pairings, like broccoli rabe with grilled sausage, and entrees for people who are not shy about eating: Black Angus steak, spicy seafood with black linguine, and several kinds of carpaccio. — Charlotte Druckman

Pizza di Ciro, $19; Caesar salad, $9; veal chop, $46