This is a wine which absolutely screams Pauillac -- from its classic black currant, cedar and lead pencil nose to its rich, smooth, mouth-filling palate. Where many 2003s (even top-rated ones) are showing a disturbing bitter edge, this is just a pure, velvety, unremittingly delicious flow of pleasure. It's the reason Bordeaux has established itself over the centuries as the world's premier red wine.