Much fuss has been made over really good Pinots, and these from Williams Selyem are worthy of the press. The proprietors of California's original producer of "cult" Pinot Noirs, the early vintages of which were made in a garage, sold the winery in early 1998. Today, the array of wines at Williams Selyem is broader than ever and quality remains high. Sample two bottles each from two different Williams Selyem vineyards. Enjoy one bottle of the Russian River Valley Pinot described by its winemaker Bob Cabral as ??fragranced with ripe plums, wild blackberry jam, violets, forest floor, creme brulee and honey-cured bacon. Your mouth fills with blackberries, blueberries, sassafras, nutmeg and toasty oak. The ripe, concentrated tannins are rich and round across your palate and the balanced acidity and berry finish is long and lingering. A fuller bodied wine that should get better with 5-6 years of age.? Compare it to its equally compelling sibling. The Sonoma Coast pinot is described as filling the mouth with ?flavors of tart raspberries, truffles, dried cranberries, racy acids, cardamom and mocha. The bright Coastal acidity and ripe soft tannins accentuate the wild berry flavors which linger into the long finish.?