Three bottles of this San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition's Double Gold Winner.

The Reserve line is a clear departure from most other winery's reserve class wines. It is constructed in a unique way, with different goals and an altogether fantastic story.

The foundation blend for this wine was first put together in the conference room of a small estate winery in Chile in 2004. The owner of the facility offered a chance to play with the components of his blend..and the winemaker knew that one day he'd make that wine again. Gain Bay winery was founded to remake that blend. This 2006 is the first release.

This wine in some ways overemphasizes aroma, fruitful qualities and texture and de-values excessive oak, tannin and "structure," without any over-ripe flavors. The typical Cabernet Sauvignon based focal point for most Napa reserve class wines, in which the mid-palate is the dominant player and accentuated by super-ripe grapes, oak, micro-oxygenation, and ever higher alcohol content, is diminished in Gain Bay Reserve. In place of the typical excesses, this wine leans towards a new balance, shifting to forward fruit flavors and back-end sophistication. This focal shift creates an elegant, lasting and more beautiful wine, albeit not necessarily as "intense" or "strong" or "powerful."

Central to this creation is the knowledge of the importance of each component of a Bordeaux style blend. Malbec and Cabernet Franc play highlighted roles, as does Petit Verdot. Cabernet still has a part to play as well and isn't overlooked; it is just significantly diminished in this wine.

The wine is a blend from two Napa Valley appellations; Rutherford and Mt. Veeder. The valley floor in Rutherford supplied the supple floral fruit tones found in the Malbec and Cabernet Franc lots. The mountain fruit gives us the mid and back end pieces - the Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot.

Linger over the wine and you'll be rewarded with a sophisticated, colorful and delicious beverage.