From the weathered red paint on its barnlike exterior to the crock of cheddar spread that prefaces the meal, J.R.'s Stockyards Inn is a trip down memory lane. Unchanged--except for its prices--since it opened in 1978, it is a reminder of what area steakhouses were like before the prime-beef chains from Chicago, New York, New Orleans, and California arrived.--Robert Shoffner, Washingtonian Magazine